Lay Tile
Items you will need to complete the job:
-Tile -Notched trowel
-Tile spacers -Thinset Mortar
-Grout -New or existing baseboards
-Tile/grout sealer -Grout float
-Concrete Board -Sponge
-Bucket -Drywall or Wood screws 1-5/8"
-Chalk line -Fiberglass mesh tape
-Jamb saw
-Flexible thinset
-Tile Saw (Diamond Blade wet saw)
(best to cover mesh tape on cement board joints)
1. First you will need to remove all the baseboards around the room. You may need to run a utility knife along the top of the baseboard between the wall and the baseboard. This will help keep from damaging the paint when taking the baseboards off. You can lay the tile without removing the baseboards but you will have a much more professional look if you take the extra effort.
2. Preparing your subfloor. Your subfloor should either be plywood or concrete. Each subfloor has a different process for being prepared. If your are working with a plywood subfloor make sure you are starting with a firm, level and squeak free floor. If there are squeaky areas in the floor, remove the squeak and firm up the floor by screwing down the plywood in those areas. Next lay 1/2" concrete board over the plywood and screw it down about every 6 inches around the edges. Be sure that the joints (where the sheets of concrete board meet each other) are overlapping the joints in the subfloor. Once you have the concrete board all screwed down you will need to cover the joints with fiberglass mesh tape. Apply a flexible thinset mortar over the tape pressing it down so that it is smooth. Plywood tends to expand and contract, so using concrete board with the flexible thinset, will allow for movement and help prolong the life of your finished floors.
If you are working with a concrete subfloor, you will need to make sure the floor is level and fill any cracks that may be in the floor. If your concrete was treated when the floor was poured you will need to use a bonding agent or install a new subfloor with plywood. If you don't know if the concrete is treated you can try sprinkling a little water on the floor. If it the water does not sink in, the floor has probably been treated. Check with a professional at your local home improvement store for help finding the proper bonding agent for the job. Make sure the concrete is clean and free of any debris. If the concrete has a smooth finish you will need to rough up the floor so the thinset mortar will be able to bond best.
3. Now that your subfloor is ready, it is time to lay out the pattern of your tile. 
It is best to center your layout in the middle of the room or where the most tile will be seen. Use a chalk line to mark perpendicular reference lines. Lay your tile without using any thinset first. This will show you what your layout will look like as well as what kind of cuts you will need to make. You may be able to alter where you center your layout to reduce the amount of cuts you have to make. Be sure to use your spacers when doing your dry layout. Now that you have your tile laid out and you know what cuts you will need to make, you can start setting your tile. Start in the middle where your chalk reference lines intersect and work your way out. Mix your thinset mortar by following the manufacturers directions on the back of the product. Do not mix more than you can use within about 30 minutes. If the thinset sits too long it will start to dry out and your tile will not adhere properly. 
Use a notched trowel to spread the thinset mortar within your chalk lines. Hold the trowel at about a 45 degree angle while spreading to keep the thickness of thinset even. Try not to cover the chalk lines with the mortar as you go. Lay the tile then press down and twist a little to set the tile. Keep checking your progress to make sure your tiles are straight in reference to your chalk lines and keep checking that your tiles are level. Make your cuts last. Be sure to leave a spacers distance between your tile and the wall. This will help to prevent your grout lines from cracking. You may also need to cut the bottom of your door jambs to make room for the tile to fit underneath. Use a Jamb saw to make these cuts. Lay your tile up to the door jamb and mark the door jamb at the top of the tile, then cut. Once all your tile is laid, let it set for 24 hours.
5. If your tile was not already sealed when you purchased it you will need to seal the tile before you grout. Use a sealer that is recommend for the type of tile you are using and follow the directions on the sealer. Sealing the tile before applying the grout helps to make grout removal easier.
6. Your next step is applying the grout. Make sure you have removed all the spacers before you start grouting. Choose a grout color that compliments your tile. A sanded grout should be used, unless you are laying Marble, Granite or other natural stone. These stone tiles can be scratched and should be grouted with UNsanded grout. Use a grout float to spread your grout. Mix enough grout to cover about 3 square feet at a time. Press the grout firmly into the joints, (lines between the tiles) then tilt the float up on a steep angle to take off the excess grout from the floor. Use a bucket of clean water and a wet sponge to wipe off the remaining grout. Do not let the grout sit on the tile for too long or it can become difficult to remove and leave a haze. Rinsing the sponge often and keeping the water clean works best for removing all the grout.
7. Go over the grout lines using a grout sealer, following the directions on the back of the product.
8. Reinstall your baseboards. If your existing baseboards are in good shape you may want to apply a fresh coat of paint before reinstalling them. This will help them look fresh and new like the flooring you have just installed. If your baseboards are not in the best of shape it would be a good time to replace them with new baseboards, to make the new floor look its best.
9. Congratulations! You have a beautiful new tile floor!!
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